Considering my declared loathing of all things involving bicycle saddles, it is surprising I’ve just enjoyed another cycling adventure. Thankfully my fear of missing out on an event that includes friends, fun, food and wine precludes me from declining any travel opportunity. On this trip fifteen of us went to Havelock North in Hawkes Bay for a weekend to celebrate a bestie turning 50.
We started the journey from my place with an early morning breakfast of berries marinated overnight in tequila and served in flutes of champagne. I’m a great believer in starting a day as you plan to finish and my traveling companions were avid and competent supporters of this.
After an easy flight from Auckland to Napier, we jumped in our pre-booked vans; Team A in a smart pre-requested model and Team B in an old last-minute wreck. This set the tone for the rest of the weekend. It is a short drive to the Black Barn Riverside Lodges where we stayed in magnificent self-contained homes.
Team A were keen for some exercise and, to their great regret, forged the shallow waters of the Tuki Tuki River in front of our homes to tackle the Te Mata Peak in the blazing afternoon sun. Team B, of which I was a proud member, lay by the pool and quaffed Coronas and cocktails. By the time Team A returned – dehydrated and envious – we were well relaxed and lubricated. True to form Team A speedily caught up, sustained minor injuries in an underwater handstand display and won the race to see who slurred the most in the shortest time. Team B was oblivious a competition in progress.

Our first night blowout occurred in the magnificent setting at the Craggy Range Restaurant where we enjoyed the spectacular vista of the Te Mata peak and surrounds. The food was not as good as I remembered from previous occasions but only two of us cared enough to comment and we had both chosen the duck.

The next day we awoke later than planned and eventually met our cycling suppliers Takaro Trails at Hastings Golf Course. They provided excellent bikes with gel seats, as well as routes maps and rescue options in case of collapse or over-consumption.
We set off along a beautiful track through oak trees and fruit orchards with wine tasting in mind, and eventually reached the famed Gimblett Gravels appellation, a small wine region with many tempting options. It was a risky outing because none of us use the spittoons. Instead we wobbled to several cellar doors and finished up lunching late at Te Awa vineyard. This meal was outstanding and their 2013 rose was so good I had a case delivered home. I’ve since created several opportunities to check it and it’s still delicious.
The weather in Hawkes Bay in February and March is marvelous (the locals will remind you regularly that it is always good) Saturday 22nd Feb was cloudless and the afternoon temperatures rose to 34 degrees – something more moderate would have been helpful. Because it was so hot, we abandoned afternoon tastings in favour of a comfortable pillow and a snooze.
Once refreshed, we headed towards the Te Awanga coastline to dine at the Elephant Hill Restaurant and Winery – sadly now closed as it was an absolute must visit for foodie. Their chocolate desert was sublime. I tasted the Pegasus Bay 2010 Riesling for the first time and give it a big tick. Our sedentary wine consumption was no surprise and we had 15 sober drivers to choose from for the return journey home.

On Sunday it was the actual birthday of our celebrating princess so we clambered back on the bikes for second leg of the tour and another lunch. I made the point – often – that gel seats do not live up to assurances. We rode up and down a few ‘small’ hills towards the Tuki Tuki River trail. I had to push my bike momentarily because of a mystery mechanically malfunction that appeared to be gradient dependent. I was thankful Team A had left a earlier because they wanted to put in a little extra mileage (awed sigh).

We rode about 40 kilometers along tracks bordered by hectare after hectare of ruby ripe apple orchards. We could hear distant radios blaring as fruit pickers clambered up and down aluminum ladders, the ground laden with discarded produce and packing crates balanced precariously high.
After a couple of hour’s effort we returned to wine country again. At the Black Barn Winery and Restaurant we plonked down at an enormous outdoor table shaded by a ceiling of grape laden vines overlooking the vineyards. The setting was breathtaking. Naturally we made a huge racket and the other guests gamely endured our festivities. We concluded with a long and loud rendition of happy birthday to our special girl and then proceeded to serenade all the other tables celebrating anything at all for the forthcoming year. It was the least we could do.

The 5km ride home was more dangerous than anything I’ve attempted on a bike before but the promise a swim and an afternoon sleep kept me pedaling mostly in the right direction.
That night we stayed home and prepared our own birthday feast. The Riverside Lodges are better equipped than some restaurant kitchens I’ve seen. Masterchef could be filmed in Lodge 1 and without any need for extra equipment. There being no immediate neighbours that we noticed, we cranked up the music and danced until the early hours.

Monday proceeded slowly and conversation was muted, scarce and sane. Our return flight was so quick no one knew we were home until the landing bump woke us up.
Any foodie looking for an outstanding and special weekend would be well advised to replicate this schedule (developed by someone from Team A of course) Both teams had a blast.
4 Responses
Thanks Debs. Brilliant travel information & inspiration !
Debs, love the blog, sounds amazing and what a great group of mates. Looked like you were having a great time. See you soon sunshine 🙂
Debs that was certainly a wonderful trip by the sounds of your blog. Please keep it up we enjoy your newsy emails. Lots of love from Bob and Shirley. XX
Fantastic. Thanks for the tips, on the bucket list. Cheers Deb and I will remember the pickled berries and champas. Go well xoxox