Vibrant Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

Victoria Falls is one of the seven wonders of the natural world and it’s easy to understand why. The extent, expanse and volume of water cascading over the 120m precipice and then surging through the deep zigzagging Batoka Gorge is indescribable and photo’s seldom do full justice. It needs to be seen, felt, smelt and heard to be fully appreciated.

Guide to Luxury Accommodation in Victoria Falls

• Ilala Lodge
• Palm River Hotel
• Victoria Falls Hotel
  

Best times to visit Victoria Falls

The water level of the Zambezi River this past June when I last visited was ideal for optimal viewing although every visit offers a unique experience. On prior occasions, I’ve hyped up the spectacle of the what the local tribes call Mosi-oa-Tunya, ‘The Smoke that Thunders’ only to arrive to a miserable trickle during a very severe drought. On another occasion, the river was so swollen that the voluminous spray ricocheting back up from the gorge below was as bruising as being caught in a hailstorm but the powerful roar of the water was unforgettable. As a general guide, the best time to visit Victoria Falls is from February through May as the Zambezi River water levels peak following the wet season. Thereafter June through September visibility is probably greatest as water levels recede again but the winter temperatures are a little cooler. It is very hot again by October and November and you run the risk of disappointingly low water levels, especially if you hit a drought year. December and January are peak wet season in Zimbabwe and rain and thunderstorms become a factor.

Though Zimbabwe continues its tragic death-spiral towards an economic wasteland following decades of corrupt and irresponsible political leadership, Victoria Falls remains a viable and valuable tourist attraction providing desperately needed foreign currency – unsurprising given the local currency is near worthless. Indeed, nearly every transaction in Victoria Falls is denominated in US dollars including visa charges that are payable on landing at the airport or at the vehicle border post. Entry to the Victoria Falls National Park to view the falls is a also fairly brutal US$50 cash for foreigners. Regardless, it’s a great experience strolling along clean and maintained walkways to the designated viewing points, the amble frequently disrupted by troupes of cheeky monkeys, or sightings of small antelope and warthog. Fear not though, the park has fencing that discourages larger animals wandering through, and the dusty access road below Victoria Falls Hotel is now closed to pedestrians after elephants apparently reclaimed the trail during the human free Covid years. For those not comfortable strolling around the town and park alone, here’s a guided tour option to consider

Since a prior visit in 2019, the hoards of relentless beggars and desperate street vendors that hounded every tourist seem vastly reduced. Whilst these interactions weren’t violent or threatening, the unpleasant onslaught of beseeching locals was off-putting and intimidating for the uninitiated. I asked several people about this change and eventually a guide told me that when the local tourism operators approached the authorities about the problem, they were told the government wouldn’t intervene but gave them tacit permission to sort it out themselves. And, whilst I couldn’t verify if this was correct, it appears someone has. The town has been cleaned up and is almost litter free, and visitors are mostly unhindered while browsing through the wonderful curio shops in the village.

The entire gambit of accommodation options ranging from hotels, safari lodges, casino hotels, motels, camp sites, Airbnb and private homesteads are available so be directed by your own budget and lodging preferences. The Victoria Falls Hotel remains a firm favourite. It’s a recently refurbished rambling colonial classic (be sure to request a room with a view when booking) The bars and salons, passages and bedrooms are adorned with paintings, sketches and photographs that record the early colonial era in Southern Africa making the hotel a living, breathing museum. Credit to those who resisted the temptation to destroy what many regard as an offensive record and instead preserved this history to enlighten future generations. Every night, the hotel hosts a vibrant traditional show to accompany your buffet dinner and there is a fine dining restaurant on site too. For an alternative night out, consider a sunset dinner cruise or catch a taxi to the Dusty Road for an authentic township dining experience.

The weather is moderate all year round. Hot and sunny in summer, brisk but still sunny in winter and when it does rain, the storms are short-lived and clear quickly. Because there is seldom lingering gloom and the area boasts an astounding diversity of topography, the Victoria Falls region has developed a huge offering of adventure tourism options. Perhaps allocate a day for a Helicopter tour, or for the brave or reckless depending on your view, there is skydiving and paragliding, hiking and quad biking, white water river rafting, jet boating, and bungee jumping.

I’ve visited the Victoria Falls more often than I can count but every time I feel awed and humbled by its majesty. I’d suggest it’s an essential addition to any safari travel in Southern Africa. Two days there is enough unless you’re tacking on a task list of intrepid adventure experiences.