Championing the Champagne Region, France

As soon as I learned the sugar dosage in champagne had been significantly reduced over recent years and was now lower than that of most white wines, my conversion to a bubbles girl was complete. A visit then to the Champagne region for a couple of days was no chore and I booked several tasting tours to be sure nothing was missed.

Important travel tips to enhance your Champagne experience

• The French in these parts take their holiday season seriously and everything but the main attractions and major champagne houses close for the mid three weeks of August. If you are visiting at this time of the year, whilst there is still plenty to see and do, the restaurants and vineyards on your A-list are unlikely to be operating.
• Plan ahead and book your preferred tastings well beforehand.
• Pay up for the premium tours for an excellent education and protection from the crowds.
• Take a warm jacket or jumper if you’re visiting the cellars. It’s 10° down there and no matter how hot the day, it doesn’t take long to feel the chill. I watched person after shivering person yearn for the return to ground level warmth.

A day in Reims

Reims (pronounced Rance with a guttural R to my ignorant ear) appears to be undergoing to be a synchronised program of renovations with several major landmarks temporarily closed or covered. Despite this, it seems an elegant town abuzz with a sophisticated populace and a vibrant student community. In addition to the prevalence of extraordinary champagne estates, the Cathedral of Notre Dame de Reims is truly magnificent and worthy of your attention no matter how many similar structures you may have endured. The coronation of 33 French monarchs here is no small statement and on viewing, aside from the political necessities of the time, it becomes clear why. It has been closed to general visitors since a fire in 2019 but it is still possible to book a one hour guided tour to view it. The Palais de Tau, also currently being renovated, is right next door and the readers room in Carnegie Library is a block behind. The magnificent Roman triumphal arch, Porte de Mars (temporarily under wraps too), borders the beautiful gardens of Fontaine des Hautes Promenades and provides an opportunity to kick off your sweaty shoes and dip your toes in the fountain waters alongside playful puppies and splashing children. Thereafter Cafe de Palais provides a lunch venue where you can enjoy the owner’s eclectic personal art collection that fills every spare centimetre of the premises.

When venturing to Veuve Clicquot or any of the other nearby champagne houses, dropping into Chateau les Crayeres is an essential treat. It is beautiful. I indulged in afternoon tea seated on the terrace overlooking their perfect gardens. As evening approached – can you tell I never wanted to leave – I watched resplendent hotel residents descend for apéritifs on the terrace before dining at the luxurious two star Michelin Restaurant Le Parc. I reluctantly packed away my laptop and dined instead at their adjacent brasserie, Le Jardin de Crayeres. The fare here was good but not great but perhaps my expectations were tainted by what I’d seen earlier. Tables were placed close to each other creating a convivial atmosphere where friendly diners chatted across and between parties, sharing their tales and recommendations. I was entertained all night watching the smooth dance of the waiting staff serving, delivering and clearing and swiftly moving patrons on and out.

A day in Épernay

The main attraction here of course is the Avenue de Champagne. Plan to spend most of the day weaving from one champagne house to the next along this most famous boulevard. Drop into any venue that appeals. All of them compete to make their tasting environs welcoming and comfortable and many offer accompanying platters. Revel in the opportunity to try the labels you don’t already recognise. There are dozens of magnificent choices but my best find this trip was a first generation producer Paul-Etienne St Germaine. The expense of breaking into the firmly established champagne community is a natural barrier to entry but, having worked for large houses for two decades and his family being generational wine growers, this newbie and his wife bought their magnificent home near the end of Avenue de Champagne in 2015 during a property slump. Their offerings were among the most delicate and delicious I experienced – supporting them is a ‘must do’ in my opinion.

The gardens of Perrier-Jouët provide a magical respite for your lunch break. A small wait may be required for an outside table but diners move on pretty quickly. And then follow later in the afternoon with a glass Moët et Chandon in their gorgeous outdoor courtyard.

The town of Épernay suffers from several unspectacular rebuilds following wars and associated plundering. The cathedral, yet another Notre Dame, is lovely and there are a few pleasing notable sites dotted around but Épernay is bland compared to many similar sized towns throughout France. It does enjoy a great foodie scene and, in season, there are dozens of top restaurants to choose between. I wasn’t around long enough to try anything but I’ve had several recommendations that were shared with me for anyone interested.

A moment in Ay and Hautevillers

Just 6km east of Épernay with the River Marne running through it, lies the little village of Ay, the dominant grand cru growing region and home to Bollinger and several other prestigious labels.

Seven kilometers north of Épernay, surrounded by acres of vines, is the hilltop village of Hautevillers. The Abbaye d’Hautvillers is famed as the burial site of Dom Perignon who is credited for developing the second fermentation process that we know and love for preserving the bubbles. Many thanks bestowed this resourceful inventor.

With more time there is the town of Troyes and several other smaller villages to consider, each with their own characteristics and venues, and all servicing the grape producers, bottling plants, sugar cane growers and everything else associated with champagne production. Only the corks are fully imported – usually sourced from Spain or Portugal.

A few days or a weekend in the Champagne region is a fabulous escape. It is within easy to reach from Paris by car or train so go ahead and give your palate a treat.