Abundant Alsace – the Route de Vin (wine route), France

If you’ve never considered visiting the Alsace region while in France, perhaps it’s time you did. I went on a whim and was thrilled with the decision. The Alsace route de vin has to be the prettiest in France. Every few kilometres, hillsides of perfectly planted grapevines are painted with the colourful dots of a village or hamlet – and the Alsatian wines around every corner are rather marvellous too.

Travel tips to enhance your travel to Alsace;

• August is holiday time around here and much of the good stuff, especially the small vineyard properties, are closed to visitors for the middle three weeks of the month.
• Most good restaurants are shut on Sundays and Mondays so organise your travel in and out of the region on those days.
• If you’re a foodie, book your dining in advance as it’s too late to snag decent reservations once you’re already there. 

I based myself in Colmar. Quaint doesn’t begin to describe this lovely place. It’s a town of vibrant ‘half timber’ dwellings painted in every hue, with waterways and canals, spotless streets, flower pots, hanging baskets and love heart locks. Small specialty stores line the streets of the compact shopping district and a myriad of bars and restaurants are packed to overflowing with enamoured patrons. It is also famed for amazing Christmas markets in December and there are several ‘all year’ outlets catering to those wanting to stock up on special decorations. 

I chose to drive the entire wine route winding from one barely pronounceable village to the next, tackling the north of Colmar one day and south the next. However, I passed dozens of cyclists and was tempted to nudge a few off the road so I could question them. I’ve since conducted more orthodox research and discovered you can sign up for self-guided cycle tours, some with e-bikes (which I’d opt for of course because there are several hills!) Walking packages are available too and on most sites it appears the optimal tour lasts five days leaving from Strasburg and ending in Colmar.

I chose to drive the route in two days which was doable but a little rushed especially as every village has a selection of sights worth digging into (the tourist centres in each place provide helpful brochures with the sights listed for your convenience) The villages of Ribeauville, Riquewihr, Equisheim (all north of Colmar), and Kayersberg (west) were my favourites and if you’re obsessed with gingerbread, call into the town of Gertwiller where two competing producers have overstocked stores showcasing their delicious merchandise. South of Colmar the outstanding choices seemed to dwindle a little but I loved the town of Soultzmatt with its long and striking thoroughfare lined with wonderful regional producers offering delicious cellar tastings. Rouffach just 7km along the road was another delightful little hamlet worth popping into. There are so many more gorgeous places to explore but I’m sure its safe to assume you’ve got the idea.

The point of a wine route of course is the wine and the choice of tasting venues seemed endless. Six grape varieties make up the the Alsace wine region and, as you’d imagine, I tried them all (without once experiencing a dud) The Muscats particularly were aromatic and dry, and the Rieslings also dry but complex and equally stunning – I could ramble on, and on and on (and I probably did following one or two visits)

The food was amazing too. I twice booked Michelin in Colmar expecting a shock but instead was astounded by the reasonable tariffs – incomparable to anywhere else I’ve tried in Europe so spoil yourselves. Bord’eau in the Little Venice area was an understated treat with charming staff, stunning Bernardaud crockery and an excellent tightly curated wine list. I only discovered the place because I was staying in their well-appointed apartments across the street and mistakenly turned up at their hushed dining room dragging my large suitcase. Quelle horreur!

I chanced upon Restaurant Girardin, a Michelin one at La Maison de Tetes with white interior and white linen table clothes – right up my alley. And then the following day in Ribeauvillé I stumbled upon another gem when I happened to glance through their window as a dish of irresistible steaming veggies was being delivered to a table. It’s a rare joy to come across something brand new and utterly fabulous but the opening of Bistro by Foreign Local (American chef, French maitre’d) was my best discovery in the entire region. To locate it, meander past the obvious eateries near the pedestrian entrance of the village and a little further up the hill you will find a young couple slaving all hours to establish their restaurant, a dream that was two years in the making. At the moment if a table is free the maitre’d will seat you but, based on my experience there, I doubt this will last. Call ahead and make a reservation. 

Alsace was such a wonderful surprise I’m considering putting a group of fun people together next season to cycle the route at leisure including a few days to discover Strasburg. Anyone wanting to join can email me directly.