Charismatic Corsica – your guide and recommended itinerary

On first glance of the map, it struck me that Corsica might be giving the finger to mainland France which has historically regarded the territory as a poor cousin. However, poor cousin or not, I am enamoured with this beautiful island. It’s different – stunning but not showy; more elegant than some nearby neighbours; and, although busy, it’s not overrun by throngs of tourists, even in August. Its people seem reserved but are quick to warm up and share their quirky humour. Nobody hounds you to visit their venues – most seem content to be discovered.

The coastal regions are brimming with superb beaches and much of the interior is made up of steep, jagged volcanic mountains showcasing striking rocks formations. The vegetation is mostly thick bush or forest and although intense agriculture is not immediately obvious, vineyards are abundant north of Calvi and near Saint-Florent.

What follows below is my suggested itinerary and recommendations as developed with my travelling buddy, Jenni.

Where to stay

I’ve included tried and trusted recommendations here from friend and fellow travel blogger, Jane of Blog the Globe (denoted BtG)

Bonifacio
Hotel Spa Genovese – Situated in the of old town with pool and south facing sea views of the cliffs
Santateresa – A functional hotel a little out of centre with plenty of parking
Solemare – A funky port side hotel with pool
Hotel U Capu Biancu – (BtG) A luxury resort just outside Bonifacio

Cavallo Island
Hotel des Pêcheurs – Lovely waterfront island hotel and spa

Ajaccio
Hotel Cala di Sole – Beachside hotel west of the city, close to decent restaurants
Hotel Les Moulettes – (BtG) West of the city centre with gorgeous pool
Palm Beach – Beachside hotel west of city centre

Calvi
Hotel L’Abbaye – superior, elegant hotel a block off the busy centre
La Villa – (BtG) Luxury hotel near the town attractions
Hotel Cas Bianca – (BtG) Comfortable hotel in a good location

St Florent
Hotel Demure Loredana – (BtG) Stunning luxury hotel that deserves time spent enjoying the facilities
Responsible Boutique Hotel – Good location with everything you need
Hotel La Dimora and Spa – a few minutes from St Florent but well recommended

Erbalunga
Castel Brando Hotel and Spa – lovely spot close to Bastia as an alternative to staying in the city

Bastia
Mariana Plage – good hotel near Pineto beach and convenient if departing early from the airport

Travel guide and itinerary

Corsica a small island but it has four airports so be careful to choose the most convenient when booking flights. We flew into Figaro Airport and headed directly south to Bonifacio for three nights.

Bonifacio is the jewel of Corsica. The old town sits high above a natural protected harbour that boasts rows of expensive berths in a picturesque marina bordered by vibrant seafood restaurants, exclusive boutiques, food stores and several hotels. Take a stroll along the boardwalk and dine down here on your first evening – it’s safe to select whichever spot you fancy from one of many venues.

Day one
Explore the old town. Make an early start to descend the steep 187 stairs of King Aragon’s staircase. Legend says it was carved into the limestone cliffs in a single night by his invading army but it was really built by monks as a means to access fresh water from a deep well near the bottom. 

The old town is compact so it is an easy stroll to explore the citadel and all remaining sights of interest. A useful guide is available from the tourist office. Factor in a long lunch at any venue in Maninchella’s Square which has tremendous views of the stark white limestone cliffs and also looks southwards to Sardinia. In fact, being so close to Sardinia our wifi services kept jumping between French and Italian providers.

If you’re a fan of sunsets save visiting The Rudder for late afternoon. It is a long tunnel that descends to a cliffside platform that was equipped with a powerful spotlight and served as a strategic lookout against invaders. Follow this with a meander around the marine cemetery. Both are found at the furthest tip of Bonifacio and provide a good spot for sunset viewing. Perhaps take ‘evening refreshments’ with you.

Day two
Book a boat tour to the Lavezzi Island archipelago. The topography is spectacular and tour boats also drop passengers and their snorkelling gear off to swim among the rocks in the clear warm seas or sunbathe on the bright white beaches of Cavallo Island. There are several enjoyable restaurants here too, namely Restaurant Le Ferme and Restaurant des Pêcheurs (which is also a fabulous hotel option for an overnight stay.) Private boats can also moor here too as long as they call the restaurants to book ahead of time.

The return boat trip passes intruiging caves and majestic cliffs and the re-entry into Bonifacio harbour provides a wondrous finale. If inclement weather makes a boat cruise impossible, it is worth jumping on a SPMB round trip ferry departing from the port to see the sea view of the Bonifacio’s precariously perched buildings overhanging the cliff edges.

Visiting golfers might be thrilled to squeeze in a late afternoon game at Seprone Golf Club just 15 minutes from Bonifacio. It’s easy to book ahead and reserve clubs and a cart. This course is famous for the most spectacular sea views imaginable.

Day three
We wanted to visit Porto-Vecchio which is a trendy tourist town set high above its own port, marina and nearby beaches. So, we collected our rental car and drove 30 minutes west (a car is unnecessary in Bonifacio so be sure to only book from when you’re leaving)

Developing the perspective to drive on the ‘wrong side’ of the road almost tested our travelling compatibility. Seated in the passenger seat, I bellowed “left” more than several times as we almost ramped pavements while Jenni did her best to avoid clipping oncoming traffic on the narrow, winding roads. After almost tearing my ab muscles leaning away from curbs – as if it might help – I learned to sacrifice the views, squeeze my eyes shut and await our final destination (hoping it wasn’t heaven). When the driving duties switched, it turned out I was no better navigating but, unlike me, Jenni refrained from squealing.

Immediately on arrival in gorgeous Porto Vecchio, we lurched towards a lovely lunch spot called A Tanna. I needed a large wine by then. It is one of three neighbouring restaurants sharing the same kitchen and has an outdoor veranda that provides an expansive view of the port. Plan to get there just before 12.30 to avoid queuing.

Porto-Vecchio is also popular for its nearby beaches of Palombaggia, Carla Rossa and Pinarello. There are several luxury accomodation options around there too but we preferred to return to beautiful Bonifacio.

For a splendid final night out in Bonifacio, drop into the eclectic Gallerie Des Ducs wine bar for more sunset warmth. Follow up with a seafood dinner at L’Archivolto (a reservation is necessary in peak season of July/August)

Day four
We moved north for a night in Ajaccio, which for tourists is mainly all about Napoleon. His childhood home, Maison de Napoleon, records his history. (Pick up an audio guide as no translation offered). I’d always thought he arose from nothing but learned here this is not so. 

Other highlights are the Musee Fesch inside the Palace de Fesch, the citadel and Cours Napoleon with its restaurants, shops and the daily market. We checked into our beachside hotel that was a little north of the central Ajaccio and went to their beach restaurant for lunch – our only food flop in Corsica. We were starving having skipped breakfast and then being further delayed by a traffic accident. On requesting a side of vegetables, the maitre d’ was affronted, “I do not serve vegetables! You can have lemon butter or olive oil. Or nothing!” Perhaps he was from the mainland. Suitably chastised, we washed down our dry fish with a carafe of wine and escaped to explore the city.

While I’m on food, the seafood throughout Corsica was sublime. Our attempts at trying beef and veal frequently served up overcooked fare for our medium rare preferences. Short lesson – stick to the scrumptious seafood and delicious fresh salads. In addition, we were especially delighted with the Corsican whites wherever we went, mainly the Genovèse and Vermentino grape varieties – summer fresh and tasty without overdone complexity.

Following our traipse around Ajaccio, we elected to stay close to home that evening and stumbled across the marvellous Kos Beach Club and restaurant. Our dinner was excellent, as was the sea lapping our beachside table. It is a venue well worth seeking out.

Day five
We left the east coast shores to take a walk in the wilderness. Corsica is a favoured destination for hikers, trampers and climbers and cyclists. There are extensive bush and forest trails in the huge interior regional park that provide for every ability level.  We’d hoped to walk to the Spelunca Gorge near Ota but it was closed following severe flood damage. Check its status with a local tourist office if you intend visiting. Instead, we drove to Vizzavona to walk the gentle track through forest and along the river bed to the Cascade des Anglais – a waterfall that’s a small trickle in August but a raging torrent in the wet months.

On resuming our tour, we weaved along the spectacular mountainous route past the elevated villages of Vivarion or Vanco to the student town of Corte for yet another delicious restaurant salad. From there, we descended back to the coast and settled in Calvi for three nights.

Our Calvi hotel, Hotel d’Abbaye was excellent. It’s situated a block beyond the busy areas with a peaceful pool and huge freshly laundered towels. We relaxed here listening to their great poolside playlist with accompanying GnTs.

Like the rest of Corsica, there are endless dining choices in Calvi but one worthy of note is La Boheme. I suggest making a reservation and, if you’re a fan, order the shrimp risotto – so yummm!

Day six
Calvi is a small town and it takes no more than a day to investigate every corner. Ascend to the citadel and explore along ancient cobbled streets. Have lunch at Candella.

If you’re in town on a Thursday night, there is live music at Le Chalet (fun, but I suggest eating somewhere else first)

Day seven
Calvi is a base. There are a large variety of boat trips in all directions leaving from the port. Join a boat tour to visit The Scandola Nature Reserve, a magnificent UNESCO natural heritage. Huge jagged, rust red volcanic outcrops jut from the ocean. Steep cliffs, magnificent rock formations, caves, and the clear azure sea make for a memorable spectacle.

Further along, is the port of Girolata which has only 12 permanent residents in the offseason but grows to welcome 2000 visitors each day in the summer. It offers a selection of rustic restaurants in which to escape the blazing sun. The beach here is rough underfoot and shade is scarce so ask your boat captain to phone ahead and book you a covered table. You can access the village with a 40-minute walk from main road. But why would you with so many great boat tours available. 

Day eight
On departing from Calvi heading north again, pass through l’Ile Rousse. It is a picturesque beach town adjacent to the crimson-red rocky islets of the La Pietra archipelago. Another popular destination where you’d easily enjoy a day of discovery or a boat cruise.

We chose to spend our time in Saint Florent. It’s the prettiest of seaside villages with a delightful array of stylish waterfront restaurants that greet the boaties coming into port . You can jump on a boat cruise to the Desert of Agriates from here to visit the pristine white sand beaches and swim and snorkel in untouched coves that are accessible only by boat.

We had lunch a few blocks further along from the marina at Marinuccia. Gentle waves swirled below our table on their outside deck while we enjoyed dining on the best octopus of our lives.

We later trundled east along the enticing Patrimonio wine route through the charming village of Patrimonio where several reputable wineries offer cellar tastings at Domaine Leccia, Domaine Arena and Domaine Orenga de Gaffroy to name a few of the 30 estates that make up the route. We regretted not staying an extra day or two in St Florent to indulge in the treasures of this area.

Day nine
After dropping Jenni at Bastia airport, I spent my last day exploring the Cape Corse peninsular (that same finger section I mentioned at the start.) It encompasses the rocky wild west coast and lush east. I stopped along the way in lovely village of Erbalunga for lunch. A friend recommended I try out Le Pirate, a Michelin restaurant situated on the water’s edge overlooking a tiny marina. It was a little gem with lovely staff, none of whom spoke much English. There a several excellent local alternatives to a Michelin but if you’re foodies, this is your spot.

I felt considerable reluctance returning our rental car and boarding my flight to London. Another week here wouldn’t be a hardship, especially if a boat was involved – definitely my plan for a return trip.

I recommend adding Corsica to your destination list – ten unhurried days here would be ideal.