Travel tips for the western and northern coastal regions
If you’re exploring the western and northern regions of Sicily, you’re most likely to fly into Palermo airport which is about 35km south of the city centre. Collect your rental car (I use rentalcars.com to find the best prices) and continue south to start your adventure in Agrigento. Preserve the joys of Palermo city for the last few days of your holiday.
Read part one for helpful tips on what to expect while travelling around Sicily and for help planning your visit to the eastern and southern regions of Sicily.
Read part three for my thoughts on the Aeolian Islands.
Agrigento
I arrived in Agrigento immediately after several days wallowing in the baroque beauty of Noto, Modica and Ragusa (part one), and the shock of it almost made me abandon my dream of visiting the Valley of Temples at sunset. Agrigento is a comparatively ugly little town but resist being put off – there’s much around here to enjoy.
The Valley of the Temples is the main draw card. It is a spectacular UNESCO site of archaeological treasures spanning many ancient civilisations. But it is hot! There is very little shade except for in the ancient Kolymbethra Garden, a pearl often overlooked by visitors. It’s best to visit early morning, or much later in the day during the summer months once the temperature starts dropping, but be aware entry to the garden closes at 6pm and the museum at 7pm. It takes a few hours to cover all the ground here and decent footwear helps, although I did witness a few posing influencers battling to preserve their melting make up as they tottered about on heeled wedges. Brides and grooms seeking the perfect photos struggled too but somehow endeavours celebrating love are more tolerable.
Back in Agrigento, there are some spectacular destinations worth visiting in the old town. Of particular note, is the Cathedral of San Gerland, the church of Santa Maria dei Greci, and the monastery and church of Santa Spirito (you can even stay here and enjoy a breakfast that includes a secret recipe of pistachio couscous prepared by resident nuns)
I stayed in a small, mid-level apartment, Hedoné Design Experience, that was pristine and funky once inside despite looking dismal from outside. However, if budget isn’t a constraint, do stay at the Hotel Villa Athena. It’s a gorgeous old hotel and the only on-site venue available at the Valley of Temples.
With low expectations and influenced by my first appalled impressions of the town, I was delighted to find a great meal at La Scalia, and then the following night ate well again at another gem called Sal8 that was tucked in an alley and alongside several other relaxed open air dining venues. The town of Agrigento felt laid back and unhurried and turned out to be a great base for other nearby discoveries.
La Scala dei Turchi, the ‘Turkish Steps’
Be sure to include a half day lounging about on one of many lovely beaches nearby while based in Agrigento, and I’d say it’s essential to include a visit to La Scala dei Turchi, the ‘Turkish Steps’, a blinding white limestone outcrop that drops into the azure waters of the Mediterranean. The government has embarked on a conservation project to protect ‘The Steps’ so climbing on them is no longer permissible, although there were a few ubiquitous Instagrammers disregarding this request in search of their perfect pic. If the clamber down the steep cliffside stairs or dusty path doesn’t appeal, even though there are a couple of lovely bars and beach clubs offering respite on the way up from or down to sea level, then at low tide it is an easy stroll to ‘The Steps’ from the nearby adjoining beaches. Alternatively, jump on a boat for a day of sightseeing, swimming and snorkelling.
Marsala
The region is known best for producing for sweet Marsala wines, and Marsala town is at first glance a dingy working port. It’s necessary to push through the decrepit outskirts to explore the lovely historic centre with its beautiful baroque facades and narrow marble paved streets. To sample the local wines, there are several tasting rooms in Marsala centre but it’s a better experience visiting the vineyards. Try Cantine Floria, or Cantine Fodera, or Pellgrino or if you’d prefer to join a tour so you’re not concerned about driving, this one looks good.
More unique and stunning are the Marsala Salt Pans further along on the Salt Road (SP21) Be sure to make a day of visiting this area, and plan to linger until the end of the afternoon when the sun’s intensity softens and the light adds exceptional beauty to the scene. Visit the Mamma Caura rooftop bar to enjoy a cold beer in this unique and picturesque setting. You can park at park at San Teodoro beach and walk across the flats but it’s better to book a tour that includes the salt flats and nearby islands of Stagnone, Mothia and Isola Lunga. The salt flats extend for miles in shallow coastal marshes and still produce salt in significant volume. Twice a week in summer, the ancient mill gears up up to share the history of how things worked in the Phoenician times, and for those wanting more information, there’s also an interesting salt museum in one of the restored windmills in nearby Paceco on the way towards Trapani.
Erice
My next stop was Erice – a tiny medieval village lying high above the city of Trapani. Trapani originally grew as a port town servicing the fortress of Erice. It has the usual historic centre to get lost in, but veer a block or two from the main street, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, and you’re plonked in the industrial hubbub of a busy fishing port. The fish market, Mercato del Pesce, offers an excellent array of the freshest fish and Trapani has a couple of lovely beaches on which to laze the day away. Importantly though, it is the access point for ferries to visit the the fabulous Egadi Islands of Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo which I hope to explore at length on my next visit. If you’ve got a day to spare take a tour of the area or if you’re able to charter, these guys at Helm will have your boat ready for you to jump on at Trapani. I’m told it is stunning.
My focus this day was Erice which can be reached via a 10-minute cable car ride from the funicular station in Trapani, but for me, driving the steep, winding road to this exquisite little fortress town was glorious. Once again, I had to pull over a few times to absorb the spectacular views.
Erice is a maze of slippery cobbled streets through which I’m told you can visit 60 churches. Way too many for me thanks, but the sight of the Arab built castle of Torreta Pepoli and the Norman built one of Castle Venus made my skin tingle. As anywhere in Sicily, or indeed Italy, there are plenty of great food options and Maria Grammatico is the highly rated stop for sweet treats. I chose to take refuge from the sun in the small hidden garden of Domus Blanca My lunch was enhanced by the subdued beats of their resident dj warming up. I learned this venue transforms into a vibey cocktail bar in the evenings and later was invited upstairs where the co owner has used the space to showcase her eclectic collection of flowing caftans and costume jewelry.
Celafù
On the way to Celafù, stop by Mondella Beach, Palermo’s most famous. There are several more to choose from around here too but I had no desire to join the crowds of festive sun-worshippers. Here though is a link to the best beaches in the area.
Before tackling the glorious madness and mayhem of Palermo, a couple of days in Celafù offers a gorgeous opportunity for respite and relaxation. It is situated about an hour east of Palermo so if you prefer to base yourself in Palermo instead and visit Cefalù as a day trip this is easily done – best by train departing from Palermo Centrale station.
Celafù is most appreciated for its stunning sandy beach, town centre that features an outstanding duomo, and the challenging hike up the La Rocca to explore the ruins of Tempio di Diana or enjoy the magnificent views from the ‘Castle of Celafù. It helps to start this hike early leaving from Parco de la Rocca with good footwear, sun cream and lots of water and your own snacks – there is nothing available once you’re up there.
Palmero
And finally, Palermo – for me a surprising jewel.
Navigating this city in a vehicle is tricky and you truly won’t need one here, so ditch the rental car on arrival (almost all rental companies operate a Palermo City drop off depot so when booking your car don’t make the mistake of returning to the airport – it’s miles beyond the city limits)
Palermo was my last and least anticipated stop on my travels. I was tired and ready to flop but the shabby-chic and somewhat chaotic nature of this city grabbed my heart. I walked and walked and walked from one section to another, through side streets and along narrow alleys, and I discovered a surprising treat around nearly every corner. The beauty and diversity of the all the main attractions are well worth seeing but also be sure to step off the beaten track at every opportunity.
The main street, Via Vittorio Emanuele, dissects the city from seaside to suburbia, and midway you’ll find the exquisite Quattro Canti intersection. On each corner is a four-story sculptured Baroque façade representing one of the four seasons. It’s well worth taking time to admire the beautiful art, and perhaps drop into Hotel BnB for a sunset drink. Their 6th floor rooftop bar is accessible through the reception and offers a fantastic, elevated view of the nearby Pretoria Fountain and Piazza Bellini. Since you’re in this area, when you’re finally hungry, avoid the foul offerings of the overcrowded Via Roma eateries that know all too well that the tourist masses never return for a second meal, and head instead a couple of blocks north to Locanda del Gusto, a gorgeous setting that requires a reservation.
I travel with the notion that if it looks like a tourist trap it usually is, but on a day when I needed lunch after closing time of 2pm, my hotel recommended I Cucci. Despite my doubts concerning ‘all day, main street’ venues, I settled in for what turned out to be a delicious meal accompanied by charming chitchat with the head waiter/part owner. Save this one in case of a ‘hangry emergency’ when decent restaurants are already shut.
I also discovered a treasure of a hair salon called Santamarina Uni-co. You’ll find it in a side alley a couple of blocks away from the Quattro Canti and it is perched above a working archaeological site (the labelling visible through a reinforced glass floor) After several weeks non-stop travel, my hair needed urgent remedial work and, although I was ready to pay anything for help by then, their treatment was a third of London prices.
Sicily is all about food and none more so than Palermo. The street food and fresh produce markets are wonderful and it is worth considering a food tour. The markets are mad, seemingly chaotic, singsong loud with loads of yelling but tons of fun to stroll through. There are three famous ones to visit, Ballaro, Vucciria and Capo and I’ve added this informative link here for my foodie followers. Capo was my favourite – boisterous and a little confronting but wonderful. For the second time this trip I almost wanted to cook for myself.
Then two blocks away, replete from Aranchini balls and cannolo, (yes plural, I did consume more than one of both) I stumbled across a completely different market – a rude awakening from my joyful haze. From the sidewalks here, the locals were selling dumped clothing, cast-off drill bits, discarded phones and defunct printers – anything that might generate a few Euro to feed their children. It was a harsh reminder that survival for many here dictates a very tough daily reality.
My last night in Palermo I strolled downtown again through the Kalsa district via the cool bars in the edgy, grungy, diverse and energetic ‘university’ area. Every time I asked when a venue closed they’d shrug – when the last patron leaves of course. Sometimes that’s 6am Sunday morning, sometimes earlier. My destination near the waterfront was Tatum Art Jazz Bar, a superb rooftop location that provides a chilled out escape from the crowded city streets. Again, it’s wise to make a reservation as it fills up quickly if there’s a known artist performing. There are usually two sets, one at 9pm and another at 10pm but one can idle long into the night chatting to the musicians or the entertaining owner whose voluptuous partner looked a lot like Sophia Loren.
I left Sicily carrying a heavier suitcase and a solid desire to return and explore at a more leisurely pace. I suspect this place is not quite what many expect but it is packed full of treasures that deserve attention.
So, it’s arrivederci from me. I’ll be back.
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