Walking the Queen Charlotte Track

The Queen Charlotte Track is a spectacular 4 day walk that offers up magnificent water views, stunning and varied native bush and forests, and lovely lodges along the way. It does require a decent level of fitness as it includes several steep uphill trudges and a very long 27km walk on the third day. Whilst it’s not a particularly hard walk, you do feel the distance.

It’s worth noting the track is shared with mountain bikers. Being the longest unbroken track in New Zealand, it is considered one of its best rides. However be warned, it is not for beginners. The rugged terrain makes for technical and treacherous cycling in some places and it’s graded level 3 to 5. It requires a high level of focus so there wouldn’t be much opportunity to appreciate the fabulous views while navigating the track. In fact midway through our walk, we came across a dishevelled woman pushing her bike up a challenging section. She asked if any of us were divorce lawyers. I suspected she might not need one because when she finally caught up with her neglectful husband, she seemed likely to hit him with something much heavier than her e-bike.

To self guide the Queen Charlotte, you need to purchase a multi day track pass (NZD30) from the QCLC website. The track is well marked and simple to navigate. I recommend booking accommodation well in advance though because tour groups use the same venues and they are quick to fill up during the peak summer season from November through April. The lodges provide a packed lunch on request and will organise your luggage to be ferried to your next stop so there is no need to carry food supplies or lug heavy packs.

Best Queen Charlotte Lodges

• Bay of Many Coves Resort – luxury resort a short ferry trip from Picton
• Furneaux Lodge – stayed here day one – excellent
• Punga Cove – stayed here day two – excellent
• The Portage Resort – stayed here day three – very good
• Lochmara Lodge – passed this on the track, a good alternative if the Portage is full
  _ _ _
  

Most walkers start their adventure in Picton, but if you enjoy a little spoiling, consider staying overnight at The Bay of Many Coves Resort which, believe it or not, you’ll find in the Bay of Many Coves. By arrangement, the ferry will drop you off and collect you from it’s wharf before heading to the start of the track at Ship Cove.

My travel buddy, Jane, and I stayed in Picton. It is a sweet little town with not much going on. But, it ranks high in importance as the gateway to the magnificent Marlborough Sound, and as the docking point for the inter island ferries that carry passengers, vehicles and goods between the North and South Islands of New Zealand.

Recommended places to stay in Picton

• Harbour View Motel – great location with lovely views
• Bay Vista Waterfront Motel – great location

Recommended restaurants in Picton

• Sisu – interesting menu and wine list to enjoy over a long lunch
• Oxley’s Bar and Kitchen – really good pub grub for dinner or lunch
• Gusto – for breakfast or brunch
  _ _ _
  

If a long walk isn’t your thing, there are many other activities departing from the visitor’s jetty in Picton Harbour. Perhaps try a morning of kayaking in the Sound, join a day cruise, check out the marine life, or visit the mussel farms. Jumping on the old mail boat is another fun outing to consider or indulge in a group scenic helicopter flight.

We elected to join a guided walk with Tuatara Tours. We’d used them previously cycling the Wilderness Trail and we both appreciate the privilege of meandering along without a single care or concern. Organising our days fell to our wonderful guide Marcus who met us with a warm smile and firm handshake early on Day One at the Cougar Ferry Line Terminal on the town wharf.

The ferry ride through Queen Charlotte Sound is spectacular. It takes a little more than an hour and stops at several lovely piers along the way to pick up or drop off other travellers.

The walk starts at Ship Cove. You can see the Cook Monument here and read about the legend of Kupe and the history of the area on large, well displayed signboards. Marcus also added several interesting anecdotes and historical tidbits and continued to do so throughout our days of wandering.

What makes the Queen Charlotte track so special is that it mostly follows the ridge lines across multiple saddles. Walkers ascend from and drop into beautiful bays at the start and finish and for overnight rest and recovery in lovely lodges along the way. Much of the elevated walking winds through varied and extraordinary native bush and forests, interspersed with incredible views of the Sounds. The entire experience is outstanding.

Day one (~17km) Ship Cove to Furneaux Lodge

The walk started with an hour of poorly disguised panting as we climbed towards the ridge line. Thereafter we enjoyed an easy undulating mooch towards the fine establishment of Furneaux Lodge at the far end of Endeavour Inlet, and it became easier to appreciate the wonders of the native vegetation we were passing through. Marcus encouraged us to visit a massive protected Rimu tree close by here which required a small diversion to view. It was well worth the extra few steps.

Furneaux Lodge provided comfortable rooms in lovely gardens, most of them with sea views. There was also a hot tub, kayaks and stand up paddle boards available to guests. However, we skipped all extra activities on arrival and instead slurped our first delicious Marlborough ‘Roots’ gin before stumbling to our rooms. Dinner was equally pleasing, as were the soft pillows and cozy bed.

Day two – Furneaux Lodge to Punga Cove (~11.5km)

A few not too subdued groans escaped me on waking. However, I soon warmed up on the arduous accent before the track levelled out to an easy and enjoyable stroll along the ridge passing several large venison farms. It being rutting season in late March, we could hear the distant roar of the stags. We meandered on through Manuka groves and virgin native forest as we approached Punga Cove. On arrival there, we recuperated on a large sunny deck built over the water while watching sting rays feeding in the shallows. There was a spa pool here in which to recover, and time for an afternoon snooze in rooms nestled in the hillside overlooking the turquoise waters of the Sound. Dinner, once again, was excellent.

Day three – Punga Cove to Portage (~27km)

By the third day we felt we were walking fit. But 27km, including a steep diversion to the stunning Eatwells Lookout, is a long trudge. Despite the distance, the day slipped by as we marched through incredible vegetation and absorbed the spectacular vistas. Views of both the Queen Charlotte Sound and the Kenepuru Sound featured throughout the day. We reached Portage Resort without too much whining, an achievement made easier by the beauty of the native vegetation on our approach.

Day four – Portage to Anakiwa (~18km)

The final day started with a steep climb up to the Te Mahia saddle and followed with a gradual drop into Anakiwa Bay. This section is different again. Beyond glimpses of wonderful water views, we passed through swathes of huge wilding pines and groves of regenerating native forest accompanied all the way by enthralling native birdsong. The final descent winds through a magnificent beech forest until the finish.

Completing the Queen Charlotte is a thrill and so spectacular that, almost immediately following our ‘end of trail’ ice cream, we both said we could have added another day. Add it to your to-do list.